The Taj Mahal - A Wonder of the Modern World

Mumtaz Mahal died in 1631. She was the favorite wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and her tomb the Taj Mahal is thought to have been built to reflect her beauty in its perfection of design. Mumtaz was the mother of 14 of Shah Jahan’s children which were all born during an 18 year period. Shah loved Mumtaz so much that she accompanied him on his military excursions which included defeating the Rajput chiefs. She died at the age of 38 shortly after giving birth to the 14^th child while living in a military camp in Burhanpur.

Following Mumtaz’s death Shah entered a long period of mourning observing Islamic rituals for the dead but reducing his military activities and forsaking the symbols of status such as jewelry, perfume or music for two years. Six months after her death with the military campaign over Shah returned to Agra. Mumtaz’s body was brought home and a site selected for her tomb on the banks of the Yamuna. Twelve years later Shah was living an opulent life in Delhi which he was laying out as the new capital when he became ill. His three remaining sons realizing that the throne was soon to become available argued and conspired among themselves for succession. Victorious, Shah’s son Aurangzeb chased his brothers around the country to remove their threat to the throne and exiled his father to the luxurious apartments at the Agra Fort where Shah spent the next 8 years of his life gazing on the Taj Mahal while enjoying every luxury apart from freedom. 

The view Shah Jahan "enjoyed" of the mausoleum for 8 yrs. prior to  his death

The apartments where Shah Jahan was confined

The design and style of the Taj is typical Mughal but also drawn from earlier periods going back as far as the ninth century. Humayan’s Tomb 1565 in Delhi and the Baby Taj (Itimad-ud-Daulah’s tomb 1628) are just two tombs with features similar to those seen in the Taj. 41 million rupees, 500 kilos of gold, marble and precious stones as well as the labor of 20,000 workers were needed to complete the Taj over a 22 yr. period.

Symmetrical, exquisite, detailed and often thought of as feminine the Taj is not only a symbol of love but also of India. In 2007 it became one of the seven wonders of the modern world, thanks in part to the power of modern technology where cell phones were used in the campaign to vote. One of the quotes from our trip that has stuck with me is, "more cell phones than toilets" which helps to explain the power of 1.28 billion people coming together for a common cause.

Decorative elements include Pietra Dura (inlay with precious and semi-precious stones). The Mughals believed flowers were “symbols of the divine realm”. Shaded effects were created with tulips, lilies, iris, poppy and narcissus. Calligraphy of inlaid black marble on the white marble inscribe Koranic passages. Carved relief work create texture in contrast with the pietra dura giving color to the white marble. Other decorative elements include black slate, yellow, red and grey sandstone and hand carved marble screens.

Agra Tour – Great Riches and Extreme Poverty

On our first day in Agra having been wowed by the Taj Mahal from afar many of the group decided to wait until early the next morning to visit the great tomb when it would be bathed in early morning light. One of the group leaders suggested that hiring a cab driver for a guided tour was a good way to see the city. Ryan, Stuart and I followed up on this idea and hired a friendly driver named Kaka to show us the sights. Touring with a native guide – particularly if you buy him lunch – allows you to learn a lot about native culture and ideas. As a group we had been discussing the poverty we had observed and the ethics and dilemmas of giving money to beggars. Kaka felt that many of the young people had learned to beg rather than learning a skill and made it their way of life. He said that old and disabled people had no choice but to beg as their options were limited but that young people chose the begging lifestyle over work. He also observed that there are too many people on the planet which is easily observed when you walk through any Indian city. This is a viewpoint shared by many Europeans but not one I have ever heard expressed in the U.S.A. Kaka shared with us that Indians from the countryside come to the cities to find work as there was insufficient work in the countryside for them. 

At several evening meetings we discussed poverty, its causes and implications. We debated whether or not giving money to beggars helped them or made the problem worse. The discussions were emotional and intense and at the same time wonderful in the sharing of ideas as group members struggled to resolve what they were experiencing. Tolerance versus acceptance was one thing we pondered over during these discussions.  Poverty and beggars are a complicated conundrum that we observed first hand in India. As privileged westerns the disparities of Indian society were shocking, frightening and difficult for the intellect to process. 

During our Agra tour intellectually we pondered over population and poverty while touring and admiring incredible Mughal tombs and Forts. India is a dichotomy of contrasts; beautiful, shocking, diverse and complex.

The Agra Red Fort built by Akbar between 1565 and 1573 is made of red sandstone.

The fort is a contrast of styles from the fortifications of Akbar’s period to the elegance and beauty of the marble apartments built by Shah Jahan who is responsible for the Taj Mahal. This sprawling complex forms a crescent along the backs of the Yamuna.

The Baby Taj or China Tomb is the tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah who was the Lord Treasurer of the Mughal Empire. The open pillared domes on the minarets are known as chhatri.

 The decorative elements of the Baby Taj are similar to those of the Taj Mahal with calligraphic panels, mosaic patterns, marble screens, painted floral patterns, and pietra dura (stone inlay).

A garden tomb the Baby Taj is thought to have been an inspiration for the Taj Mahal. The tomb surrounded by gardens and four red sandstone gates took six years to build and was completed in 1622. The Taj Mahal took 22 years to build and was finished in 1653.